Past-Vintage Wines

2020 Retina White

Retina whites are an ongoing exploration of the rare whites of the Northwest. The 2020 Retina white is a Rhone-inspired blend of Marsanne and Roussanne from Fortmiller Vineyard at 2,000 feet elevation just outside Talent and Grenache blanc from Crater View Vineyard at 1,900 feet elevation just outside Jacksonville.

TASTING NOTES

The white wine blends from the Rhone region in the south of France often rely heavily on Marsanne and Roussanne for their core with smaller percentages of a host of other varietals. These blends often have a reputation for being opulent and generally lower in acidity with a touch of bitterness adding dimension. The 2020 Retina white, however, follows suit with previous Ratio whites, tending towards freshness and lighter textures but still showcasing some of the best aromatic signatures of the varietals that compose it. The aromatic nose combines honeysuckle, pit fruit, wax lips, and a saline, preserved-lemon quality (brought by the Roussanne). The palate is surprisingly alive and active with yellow plum, Meyer lemon, pineapple, baking spice and stony-mineral notes that drive through the energetic finish. With so much flavor and fresh acidity, this wine could cut through the fat and dense flavor of a pate or something more exotic like yellow curry or bring a citrus note to more subtle dishes based on lobster or shrimp.

THE ART

Human retinal ganglion cells as drawn by Alexander Dogiel in 1891

THE DETAILS

Vineyards: Fortmiller and Crater View
AVA: Rogue Valley
Varietals: 45% Marsanne, 35% Roussanne, & 20% Grenache blanc
Harvested October 5, 2020
Brix at harvest: 22.2 (Roussanne), 23.4 (Marsanne), 24.5 (Grenache blanc)
10 months in stainless steel and neutral French oak
Alc. 13.8%
48 cases produced

2019 Retina Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc

Retina whites are an ongoing exploration of the rare whites of the Northwest. The 2019 Retina white blends Semillon from the low-lying Wheatland Vineyard on the banks of the Willamette River with Sauvignon blanc from the organically farmed Croft Vineyard to the south.

TASTING NOTES

The aromatic 2019 combines orchard fruit, pineapple, orange marmalade, lemon confit, fennel, paraffin, and crushed rock. The palate shows a unique combination of low-alcohol laciness and classic Semillon structure that gives a broadness to the wine before it tapers to a long, saline-mineral finish. This wine should be fun to watch over time as the ageworthy elements of Semillon (honey, toast, and grilled nuts) add complexity.

THE ART

Human retinal ganglion cells as drawn by Alexander Dogiel in 1891

THE DETAILS

Vineyards: Wheatland, Croft (certified organic)
AVA: Willamette Valley
Varietals: 70% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon blanc
Harvested October 4, 2019 (Sauv. blanc), October 10, 2019 (Semillon)
Brix at harvest: 18.4 (Semillon), 23.0 (Sauv. blanc)
10 months in neutral French oak
Alc. 12.0%
87 cases produced

2016 Johnson Vineyard Chardonnay

The 2016 Johnson Vineyard Chardonnay comes from the certified-organic Johnson Vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA. Eric Lemelson owns the vineyard, having purchased it from the Johnson family, who famously farm grass seed across the Willamette Valley. I’ve worked with Johnson Vineyard for years and have come to believe in its potential as a great Chardonnay site.

Tasting Notes

The growth of the vines at Johnson Vineyard can swing widely from year to year; in this case, the vine balance in 2016 favored greater richness and density. The nose centers on yellow flowers, pineapple, apple, mint, oats, and subtle hazelnut. The palate reflects the nose with a core of juicy apple and subtle spice leading through to a long, fresh finish.

The Art

Human cerebral cortex by Albert von Kölliker in 1893

The Details

Vineyard: Johnson Vineyard
AVA: Yamhill-Carlton
Clones: Dijon 76
Harvested September 9, 2016
Brix at harvest = 21.6
14 months in 22% new French oak (Damy) combined with neutral Chenin barrels and then 6 months on lees in stainless steel tank
Alc. 13.5%
98 cases produced

2016 Retina Pinot blanc

Labeled as Pinot blanc, the genetics of these grapes actually go back to a mutation found on one of Henri Gouges’ vines in Nuits St. Georges, Burgundy, where they propagated cuttings from Pinot Noir that lost its color. This is essentially the same story for other Pinot blanc plantings, but this clone has a very specific lineage – Henri Gouges > Archery Summit > Z’ivo Vineyard. Gary Andrus brought them in and included them in Archery Summit’s Vireton white blend before selling the grapes to John Zelko. John took cuttings to plant at his own Z’ivo Vineyard.

Z’ivo Vineyard is a low elevation vineyard on the east side of Eola-Amity Hills. While technically LIVE-certified, it has been farmed organically since 2013 and with biodynamic preparations since 2015. The Pinot Gouges (also called Pinot Musigny) is planted on the lowest elevation section on the southeast corner of the vineyard. The soil here is part of the Carlton series, which is similar to Woodburn, having been brought to the Willamette Valley through a series of floods originating from Lake Missoula in Idaho from 12,700 to 15,300 years ago. The vines here grow big but vineyard manager Leigh Bartholomew (ex-Archery Summit) does an incredible job of creating balance between fruit and leaves where the growth of the vine might otherwise take over.

Tasting Notes

I can’t help but think “yellow” when I smell this wine. Yellow plum, yellow apple, pineapple, mango and some sort of exotic melon combine with toasted oats and chalky/mineral notes on the nose. The palate is soft and fresh with a fresh pop of tropical fruit at mid that leads to juicy apple and pineapple on the finish. With time, this is sure to develop nuance and spice, as well as fat to complement the fresh acidity. This is a great way to start a meal and holds up to a wide range of fish and white meat dishes where the delicacy of the wine’s palate can enhance the dish.

The Art

Human retinal ganglion cells as drawn by Alexander Dogiel in 1891

The Details

Vineyard: Z’ivo Vineyard
AVA: Eola-Amity Hills
Clones: Pinot Gouges
Harvested August 20, 2016
Brix at harvest = 20.1
11 months in neutral French oak barrels, then 5 months on lees in stainless barrels
Alc. 12.4%
58 cases produced

2015 Retina Pinot Noir

The 2015 Retina Pinot noir comes from the organically farmed Jessie James Vineyard in Eola-Amity Hills. The low vines here are planted at close spacing, which (combined with the dormer-laden building on the neighboring property) reminds me of Burgundy. The vines have limited growth and are more akin to vines in Napa than the typical wet, vigorously growing vines of Oregon.

Other than the famed Ratio brand, fruit from the tiny Jessie James Vineyard goes to Grant Coulter at Hundred Suns Wine, Evan and Sarah Martin at Martin Woods, and Mikey Etzel of Beaux Freres and Coattails.

Tasting Notes

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve immersed my enormous nose into a glass of the 2015 Retina Pinot Noir to attempt to describe the aromas. The nose is somehow evasive, exhibiting black pepper spice intertwined with a mix of red and dark fruits: black cherry, plum, and strawberry. But there is something else there that reminds me of fresh clay, or maybe something more like sourdough? The pepper is primary though, so hopefully you like that aroma. Meanwhile, the palate is soft and supple (silk) with a mellow, dark berry and vanilla disposition that comes from time in barrel. Black pepper and red fruit complete the wine on the finish, making it more apt to pair with chicken and pork than darker cuts of meat. This wine is infused with potential and should age quite nicely for the next decade.

The Art

Human retinal ganglion cells as drawn by Alexander Dogiel in 1891

The Details

Vineyard: Jessie James Vineyard
AVA: Eola-Amity Hills
Clones: 70% Pommard & 30% Wadenswil
Harvested September 21, 2015
Brix at harvest = 23
30% whole cluster
18 months in 30% new French barrels (Taransaud) combined with neutral barrels
Alc. 13%
168 cases produced